Boojum Basics

1996 Trips

1996 Mongolia Exploratory Trips

1996 Dates and Prices

Additional Information Sources

• Map of Mongolia
• Map of Hovsgol (Mongolia) -- 301K
• Maps of Tibet
• Map of Argentina
• Map of Venezuela

• Free Tibet Home Page
• Mongolia Society Page
• CIA World Factbook
• State Dept Information on Mongolia
• HorseNet
• Mongolia (online magazine)
• Mongolia WWW Virtual Library

What's a Boojum?

Boojum background

Compared to the BIG adventure travel companies, we�ve remained a �mom and pop� operation for twelve years. We like it that way. We personally research and design each trip. We personally lead nearly all our trips. When we�re not able to lead a trip, we draw from a handful of extraordinary people who have co-led trips with us and share our love of horses and adventure.

Linda Svendsen and Kent Madin

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Boojum Expeditions FAQ

• Why travel on horseback with nomads?
  Learning about other lands and cultures comes from sharing and comparing common interests. Love of horses and wilderness is the common thread we share with nomads. Mobility on horseback made the early nomads formidable in war and fostered the physical and spiritual independence which is the soul of the nomad. It is the intrinsic freedom in their lifestyle, vibrancy in their character and stunning beauty of their "neighborhood" that prompts us to organize horseback travel among the nomads.
• What are the trips like?
  These are wilderness horsepacking trips, camping out at night in tents, cooking over woodfires. Some trips have daily or occaisional vehicle support, others are strictly self sufficient horsepacking. Like a trip in the Rocky Mountains 200 years ago, there are few roads, no fences and the people live in harmony with the land. For 7-9 days we spend 4-6 hours per day in the saddle walking and trotting with a canter thrown in whenever terrain allows. There are plenty of opportunities to photograph, explore, fish or just relax.
• How much riding experience do I need?
  While basic riding experience is helpful, we have been joined by non-riders who either completed a basic riding course prior to the trip or demonstrated previous experience with active, rustic wilderness travel. Riding skill is not as important as attitude. We want to know that you are comfortable around horses and like riding all day. If you meet these criteria and enjoy wilderness camping you will do fine.
• What about the horses and tack?
  We ride on local stock, small (13 -14 hands), tough, working horses well suited to the terrain. Saddles include traditional Tibetan (not unlike a McClellan) or Chinese and Russian cavalry saddles.
• How's the weather?
  Travel in summer generally means warm weather. As in our Rocky Mountains, the weather can change from bright sun to thunderstorm and back again several times in a day. We make a point of having raingear ready at all times. We carry extra roomy tents for sleeping and a large dining tent that comfortably fits the entire group for meals and meeting in bad weather..
• How's the food?
  Mutton, rice and noodles form the basis of our diet, just as it does for the local people. Over the years our hosts have improved the trail rations to include some vegetables, eggs, peanut butter, cheese and even yak, now and then. Where fishing is available we encourage every passenger to dip a line and add to the larder.
• Is it dangerous?
  Yes. Any travel in remote terrain, especially on horseback, river rafting or kayaking on large bodies of water has it's inherent physical dangers. Horses are never totally predictable in their behavior and bad weather and rough terrain can compound safety concerns. Some of the riding is over very rough, steep ground and rafting and paddling conditions can change drastically with the weather. At times we are several days from roads and even farther from hospitals. All wilderness travel is dangerous to some degree and each individual must decide if the rewards of experiencing new lands and cultures are worth the risk. Your trip leaders and wranglers take a conservative approach to riding, rafting and paddling with safety foremost in their minds but cannot guarantee that accidents won�t happen. Please discuss your concerns about safety with our office before you join a trip.
• Are their bandits or brigands?
  We are honored guests and our personal security is assured by ancient custom in China, Tibet and Mongolia. It is far more likely you will be robbed or assaulted in your hometown.
• Is there an age limit?
  We have had participants from 14 to 83. We take applications for all participants on a case by case by case basis.
• What is included in the trip fee?
  Most accommodations, meals, internal travel (air and land) horses, group camping gear. Visas and international flights are not included. Please see specific trip itineraries for complete details.

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Tibetan Highlands Horseback Trek

The eastern edge of the Tibetan plateau, where the Yangtze and Yellow Rivers gather their strength before descending across China to the sea, is home to the �black tent� nomads of Amdo and Kham. At elevations between 8,000 and 10,000 feet they tend their yak and sheep herds in some of Tibet�s most productive grazing land.

This is the �other� Tibet, rarely visited and little known to the outside world, who�s attention focuses on the Lhasa-Xigatze region, center of political and administrative life in Tibet. Ringed by snow capped mountains, the lush grasslands of and remoteness of the region have sustained traditional nomadic life, in spite of efforts to collectivize the people and crush the culture. Tibetan Buddhism or Lamaism is alive and well in eastern Tibet . New construction of temples is evident in nearly all towns. Shrines at mountain passes or river crossings that had fallen into disuse are now festooned with offerings of silk �katas� , prayer flags and �mani� stones, inscribed with prayers in Tibetan script.

On these high pastures, clans of nomads move with the seasons as their �fields on the hoof� dictate. Reaching this area is challenging, both physically and politically. Roads into the area from Sichuan and Yunnan must first climb through deep river canyons and over 14,000 foot passes to reach the grasslands. Permission to travel in this area is generally restricted and some areas, like Aba County, are hotbeds of Tibetan nationalism.

We cover 12-20 miles per day in a mixture of walking, trotting and catering on mixed terrain. There will be mountain passes to cross and rivers to ford. Our wranglers are local herdsmen , who, for the other 355 days of the year, tend their herds as their ancestors have for thousands of years. The wranglers supply the tack, riding and pack horses, and handle the stock after the day�s ride is over. Our crew includes a Boojum Expeditions trip leader, Chinese and/or American interpreters, a couple of cooks, bus drivers and occasionally a police escort, depending on the particular route. The police presence is not to �control� our group of foreigners, but to insure that our horses are not stolen. This is an area with a real �wild west� attitude and �rustling� and horse theft are long-standing traditions between rival clans.

General Itinerary: Day 1. Arrive Beijing- 2. Sightseeing in Beijing - 3. Fly to Chengdu - 4. Drive to Maowen - 5. Drive to Zoergai - 6. Meet wranglers and horses - 7-14 Riding, camping - 15 Drive to Maowen - 16. Drive to Chengdu - 17. All day Chengdu - 18. Fly to Hong Kong - 19. Depart Hong Kong

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Hovsgol (Mongolia) Horseback Trek

Since 1991, Mongolia has been struggling to rebuild both an economy and a national identity that were devastated by 70 years of communism. The legacy of Genghis Khan is the single greatest point of cultural pride for Mongolians and his heritage is at the heart of the �herdsman�s� life. By coming to Mongolia to ride horseback we honor and share their most heartfelt cultural traditions. As in Tibet, Lamaism (Tibetan Buddhism) permeates the herder�s lifestyle and is enjoying a resurgence after decades of repression.

Geographically, our riding area in Hovsgol is very similar to the northern Rocky Mountains. Within Mongolia, Hovsgol is renowned for it�s scenic beauty. Mountains ranges as high as 12,000 feet are interspersed with wide grassy valleys and clear rivers. Hovsgol is the northernmost province (aimag) of Mongolia and lies on the border with Siberia and Tuva. Hovsgol Lake, second largest body of freshwater in the world, is the centerpiece of a national park which our ride will cross. The region is famous for game and fish including elk, bear, wild boar, ibex, marmot, salmon, grayling and a member of the trout family called lenok.

We will spend most of our riding time in the Darhat Valley, just east of Lake Hovsgol. We travel 15-25 miles per day using the small, tough Mongol ponies whose forefathers carried the armies of Genghis Khan and his sons to world domination in the 13th century. These ponies are remarkable for the stamina and the fast trot which covers ground quickly in varied conditions. Our wranglers are local herdsmen who provide the horses and look after the pack animals. We ride on Russian style cavalry saddles, simple and surprisingly comfortable.

One of our objectives on the ride is to visit an encampment of the Tsaatang or �reindeer� people, a nomadic ethnic minority in Mongolia whose economy revolves around domesticated reindeer. Even in the height of summer, the Tsaatang live high above tree line and the ride to reach their camp is both rugged and beautiful. The Tsaatang live in tipis and in many ways their lifestyle and religious beliefs echo those of Native Americans.

In addition to the riding, participants are encouraged to bring fishing gear as the fishing in Mongolia is spectacular. Both fly and spin casting rigs will work well for salmon, grayling and lenok. Fish are a welcome respite from a diet which emphasizes mutton three times per day.

General Itinerary: 1. Depart US, 3. Arrive Beijing, 4 Fly to Ulaan Baatar, 5 Fly to Moron, begin drive to Hovsgol, 6 Drive to Renchinlhumbe, 7. Meet wranglers, begin ride, 8-14 Horsetrek through Darhat Valley and local mountains, visit to Tsaatang village, 15. Begin return drive to Moron, 16 Drive to Moron,17. Fly to Ulaan Baatar, 18. Fly to Beijing, 19. Fly to US

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Kazakh Horseback Trek

The Altai Mountains form a natural border between modern Mongolia, Kazakhstan and Xinjiang Province in China and are home to the Kazakhs, a Muslim, Turkic speaking culture of nomadic sheep herders. In the high valleys of the Altai, political borders mean very little to these people who travel where and when it is necessary for the welfare of their flocks. Kazakh culture, like most cultures in central Asia, is an amalgam of many traditions, languages, styles of dress and religious beliefs. The Altai Mountains have been a crossroads for thousands of years and surviving and flourishing along those crossroads is the hallmark of the Kazakhs.

Our trip begins in Beijing where we make our flight connection for Urumuchi, the capitol of Xinjiang Province in the far northwest of China. This region, like the Tibetan region, has it�s share of political turmoil where Kazakh and Uighur minorities chafe under Han Chinese rule. Urumuchi is a large, fairly ugly industrial city and we spend only a brief while there. By air or bus we head north from Urumuchi to the town of Altay, in the foothills of the Altai Mountains.

Altay has something of a frontier town feel about it. Horses tied at hitching posts are nearly as common as motorbikes and trucks. Bactrian camels are a common sight in town, often on their way to market laden with wool from high in the mountains. We will meet our local guides and horses alongside the river, just outside of Altay. We begin our ride along the river, with all our goods and food packed on a string of two-humped camels. Our 8 day ride takes us deep into the mountains, to where the China-Mongolia border is manifest only by a weathered and rusty sign. Plan to eat plenty of cheese and tea since this trip often resembles a progressive tea party, as we stop at yurts along the way to pay our respects and share news.

The Kazakhs, though Muslim, are from the �liberal� wing of Islam. They enjoy a fast horse, a fat sheep and fiery liquor and count hospitality towards strangers as an obligation and an opportunity to throw a party. In addition to their prowess with horses, Kazakhs are some of the last people to hunt with eagles. There is no more stirring sight than to watch a horseman canter across a lush green valley with a full grown eagle on his arm!

General Itinerary: Day 1. Depart US, Day 3 Arrive Beijing, Day 4 Sightseeing in Beijing, Day 5. Fly to Urumchi, afternoon sightseeing, Day 6. Fly (Drive) to Altay, Day 7 Meet wranglers and horses, sightseeing in Altay, Day 8-14 Riding and packing through the Altai Mountains, Day 15. Return to Altay, Day 16 Fly (Drive) to Urumuchi, Day 17 Fly to Beijing, Day 18 Depart for US.

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Northern Patagonia Horseback Trek

The history of northern Patagonia parallels that of our own West, complete with pioneer families, enormous cattle ranches (estancias), local cowboys (called gauchos), railroad tycoons and cycles of boom and bust. We work with the scions of two pioneer families, one English, one American. Michael Eddy�s family has been in Argentina for three generations and ranches over 15,000 acres of the windswept eastern coast. Martin Jones� grandfather settled on the slopes of the Andes near a tiny town called Bariloche.

Our trip is designed to combine horseback riding with an intimate look at the history, landscape and culture of northern Patagonia. We�ll be Michael�s guests at Estancia Cortaderas, riding along the coastal dunes for two days. The Eddy�s are avid polo players and you�ll have an opprotunity to chase a ball around on their practice field. We then travel by car to the nearby Valdes Peninsula famous for whales, sea lions and penguins. We then travel across the breadth of the continent to Lago Nahuel Huapi and the town of Bariloche. Arriving in Bariloche, we�ll ride for 5 more days on 20,000 acres of private wilderness at the feet of the Andes. We�ll ride spirited locally bred polo ponies at Estancia Cortaders and sturdy criollo horses in the Andes. We�ll enjoy the hearty and meat rich cuisine of the pampas and learn about early and recent history from Argentines who embody the heritage of Patagonia.

Itinerary: Day 1. Depart US for Buenos Aires, 2. Arrive Buenos Aires, connect to domestic flight to Viedma. 3. Meet Eddy family and begin ride. Camp out. 4. Continue riding to Estancia Cortaderas, overnight at the estancia. 5. Drive to Puerto Madryn at Valdes Peninsula. 6. All day tour by van of Valdes Peninsula. 7. Travel to Bariloche. 8. Drive to Estancia Nahuel Huapi, camp out. 9-13 Riding an exploring in wilderness around Bariloche. 14. Return to Bariloche, hotel overnight. 14 Fly to Buenos Aires and connect for flights to US

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Venezuela Beach Ride

We love winter here in Montana but when the mercury hugs the bottom of the thermometer, we can�t deny the attraction of a hot, sunny place by the sea for riding horses. We imagined a week-long getaway to someplace close and friendly with great food, local color and tropical drinks. We settled on Venezuela. Off the northern coast of Venezuela lies Margarita Island, famous at one end for fancy resort hotels and wind surfing; unknown at the other end for it�s deserted, desert peninsula framed by Caribbean waters.

We fly from Miami to Caracas and then on to Margarita where we transfer directly to our first vehicle supported camp spot. Then we ride for 5 days and 4 nights at a leisurely pace, with plenty of time for midday siestas, long lunches and frequent dips in the ocean. Our gear is transported by jeep and we ride local horses and tack. Our hosts own a ranch on the island and will introduce us to the less cosmopolitan but equally colorful life and culture of the Macanau peninsula.

Itinerary: Day 0. Fly to Miami, overnight in airport hotel, 1. Early morning departure to Venezuela and Margarita Island, camp out. 2.-5 Riding and exploring the coast of the Macanau peninsula, fishing villages, snorkeling and fishing. 6. Transfer to Rancho Negro, overnight in lodge accommodations, sightseeing. 7. Return flight to Miami.

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Mongolia Fishing/Hunting Lodge

As a joint venture with our Mongolian partners, we are building a rustic wilderness lodge in northern Hovsgol Province at the confluence of the Shishgit and Tengis Rivers. Fishing is excellent for taimen, lenok, grayling and other sport species. The lodge is accessible by horseback or helicopter and features a large dining, living hall with attached kitchen, small, two person sleeping cabins, and a Russian style sauna bath with showers. We will have an exploratory trip in early June to check on the building progress and float and fish the Shishgit and lower Tengis. We will then have scheduled departures in September using helicopters to fly in and out from Ulaan Baatar. We are currently applying for permits for hunting elk, bear, moose and ibex. Those first hunts would take place November of 1996. For further information on this new fishing destination please call the office or e-mail.

Yellowstone in Autumn

This end of summer trip is one of our favorites. In September in northern Yellowstone leaves are turning, wildlife is abundant and a nip is in the evening air. We work with our friend, H.A. Moore who is one of Montana's most experienced and most respected horse packers. Our route varies each year, depending on current conditions, but always reaches the spectacular high country of our most famous National Park.

Camping accommodations are first rate, with excellent meals, blazing sunsets, good fellowship around the campfire and great fishing and wildlife viewing. We'll see elk, bison, deer, hawks and eagles and perhaps find the track of a grizzly bear or two. The trip includes your first night hotel in Bozeman and transportation to the Park entrance from Bozeman. This trip is limited to 8 riders and fills very fast!

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What's An Exploratory?

Saddles / Paddles: Lake Hovsgol by Horse and Kayak

On the entire planet, only Lake Baikal (to the northeast) contains more fresh water than Hovsgol. This 75 mile long lake is the jewel in Hovsgol National Park and has been described as the limnological equivalent of the rain forest. The lake is framed to the east by dramatic, rocky peaks and bordered on the west by rolling steppe. This is truly the last, Last Best Place where wildlife abounds and the fishing is extraordinary for salmon, trout-like lenok and grayling. The only boats that ply Hovsgol are little used ferries and the occasional rowboat. To our knowledge, no one has been sea kayaking on Hovsgol yet

Our trip begins in Beijing where we connect for a flight to Ulaan Baatar, Mongolia�s capitol. From UB we fly to Moron and then drive to Hatgal, at the southern end of Hovsgol. From Hatgal we will ride for five days, averaging 15-20 miles per day with a truck and jeep carrying our camping gear and kayaks. When we arrive at Turt, at the northern end of the lake, we�ll swap saddles for paddles and spend 5 days paddling back down the rugged, roadless western shore to end up at Hatgal and meet the vehicles.

This trip is suitable for travelers without prior riding or paddling experience, GIVEN, that they are fit and flexible about traveling a new route. Permission of the trip leader and a phone interview are required.

Itinerary: Day 1. Depart US, 3. Arrive Beijing, overnight. 4. Fly to Ulaan Baatar. 5. Fly to Moron and drive to Hatgal, camp out. 6. Meet horses and wranglers, begin riding. 7-9. Riding up the east coast of Hovsgol with vehicle support. 10. Arrive Turt, begin paddling south down west coast of Hovsgol. 11-14. Paddling and camping out. 15. Arrive Hatgal, drive to Moron. 16 Fly to Ulaan Baatar. 17. Fly to Beijing. 18 Fly to US.

Ride / Raft in Arhangay

Last year we explored Zavhan aimag with an eye to finding an appealing combination of riding and moderate river rafting. Virtually unknown in Mongolia, river running is about as new to Mongolia as horseback riding is traditional. We think a combo trip provides just the right juxtapostion of ancient and modern. Zavhan was beautiful but ultimately, the river was too flat. We�ve seen the Chuluut River from the banks of it�s basalt gorge and it definetly has a short but beautiful stretch of whitewater and eventually drains to the Selenge and out to Lake Baikal.

We will be flying to Tsetserleg, capitol of Arhangay and ride horseback for 5 days with vehicle support until we reach our put-in point on the Chuluut. Then we have 5-6 days of floating with partial vehicle support to our take-out near Moron. The terrain between Tsetserleg and the Chuluut is superb riding country; rolling hills, forested mountains and flat valleys dotted with the gers and livestock of the local people.

At the put-in we�ll send our horse back with the wranglers and pump up our Russian style catarafts for the descent down the Chuluut. The first 25-35 kilometers is in a deep basalt gorge, a legacy of the intense volcanic activity which shaped central Arhangay. Leaving the gorge, we�ll float at a liesurely pace through some of Mongolia�s most idyllic pasture lands. Fishing on this trip will be excellent as will bird watching. There will be plenty of time to meet local people.

Itinerary: Day 1. Depart US. 3. Arrivie Beijing. 4. Fly to Ulaan Baatar. 5. Fly to Tsetserleg, camp out at wranglers camp. 6-10. Ride horseback with vehicle support, camping out. 11-15 Rafting down Chuluut River.16. Fly to Ulaan Baatar from Moron. 17 Fly to Beijing. 18 Fly to US.

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1996 Dates and Prices

Included in Trip Cost:

Not Included in Trip Cost:

Send us a message, request a brochure, ask us a question [email protected]

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Photo Album

1. Looking east across the Darhat Valley, Mongolia. (13K)
2. Traditional and cavalry saddles on horses, village of Tsagaan Nuur, Mongolia (24K)
3. Linda Svendsen and Dorlegjev, head wrangler, Mongolia. (55K)
4. Hand drawn ferry crossing at Shishgit River, Mongolia. (23K)
5. A morning�s catch of trout-like lenok on Lake Hovsgol, Mongolia. (29K)
6. Tibet guide/wrangler. Guns are a precaution against horse thieves, Tibet. (22K)
7. Kent Madin and Mongolia/Tsatang guides, Mongolia. (76K)
8. Winter log home of the Tsatang (reindeer) people, Mongolia. (32K)
9. Michimaad, translator and guide with reindeer, Mongolia. (25K)
10. A young girl on horseback, Mongolia. (17K)
11. Sighting an old flintlock rifle made in the mid-1800�s, Mongolia. (27K)
12. Reindeer and tipi-like tents of the Tsatang people, Mongolia. (24K)
13. Siesta time, Tibetan style, Tibet. (35K)
14. Old woman riding a yak, Tibet. (33K)
15. Three monks from a small temple near Zoergai, Tibet. (58K)
16. James Robson and Kazakh friends, Altai Mountains, China. (47K)
17. On the trail in Tibet. (25K)
18. Interior of the rebuilt temple at Zoergai, Tibet. (35K)

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Kent Madin
Boojum Expeditions: 14543 Kelly Canyon Road Bozeman, MT 59715 406-587-0125
Fax 406-585-3474

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